Monday, 9 September 2013
Day 4. Big Sur to San Simeon. 68.4 miles.
"This is relentless" was the anguished cry that I heard behind me today. Murray was right, the hills today were ruthless and relentless. We left Big Sur knowing we were in for another exacting day. Firstly, we stopped at Pfehffer Park and saw the Redwood Trees, massive, well worth the stop, but the hills were waiting and we had to go. For the next 50 miles it was up, up, with very little down. Thank goodness it wasn't like this on the first day or I don't know how I would have coped. The weather was strange, misty and damp making conditions wet and quite dangerous at times, we had to put our lights on. At it's worst I could hardly see Murray just in front of me. Apparently hot air rises in the interior, causing coastal air to sweep in. We could see the mist hit the cliff, pour over the road then continue up the hillside. Very eerie. As a result we missed some great views , on the plus side it kept us cool on the hills and stopped me taking so many photos. I think Murray is beginning to get irritated with me always stopping and starting. We eventually saw the sun but only when we cycled above the clouds. I kid you not. At last we left the hills behind and had 18 miles of flat riding with tail wind. We passed a beach covered by Sea Lions, and watched them playing in the sea. On the left towering over the coast is Hearst Castle build by W.R. Hearst. Tours by booking only. Murray still has his cold but it is not affecting his cycling, we padded his bum well today so matters are no worse?? Cycle touring is hard, unpredictable; the reality is different from reading a blog. It takes great motivation and determination to get up early every day and get on the bike, often when it is the last thing you feel like doing. Today was exhausting but we did it, and did it well. Tomorrow should be flatter and not so long - a piece of cake.
Sunday, 8 September 2013
Marina to Big Sur - 48.5 miles. SPECTACULAR.
Today we were expecting a tough cycle, many hills with poor hard shoulders, we were not disappointed, in anticipation we decided to keep the mileage low. Picked up our route easily, ( we had deviated from it yesterday ) and headed for first stop of Monteray. This is a paradise for cyclists, walkers and joggers as our journey followed a two way, broad bike path for about 10 miles. Very busy on a Sunday morning. We got a bit lost in Monteray so took some local advise, which usually works in our favour, but not in this case. Big long detour round Pacific Grove, watched surfers, fascinating, but taking far too long. We then cut back to our main route but this took us up the steepest climb so far. Never again, follow our map to the letter. Quite pleased and surprised that we didn't start blaming each other. We stopped in Carmel Highlands for shop bought lunch, no other place for 23 miles. From now on the road was narrow, poor hard shoulder with busy close traffic and extremely hilly, constant. Needed a lot of concentration both physically and mentally. To make up for this the scenery was absolutely spectacular - rugged sweeping coastline, cliffs, pounding surf. There were plenty vista points thank goodness as it was difficult coping with the busy road conditions and oohing and aahhing over the views. Weather was strange though, one moment glorious sunshine, next moment thick mist rolled in. I just loved it though, I enjoy the challenge of heavy traffic, beautiful scenery, reminds me why I enjoy touring so much. We arrived in Big Sur and booked into a quite posh hotel. The hills were constant and hard today but I finished strong, think I am becoming more fit. Murray is suffering from a bad cold today, must have caught it in the cold mist of last night, he is strong on the hills, coping well but is complaining of a sore bum. Men always seem to suffer that way, need more padding. Had a huge plate of pork ribs, chips and coleslaw tonight, enough for two but I ate the lot. Loved today, scenery was absolutely spectacular, roll on tomorrow.
Saturday, 7 September 2013
Pigeon Point to Marina - 63.5 miles
Rose at 7.00am to a beautiful sunny morning. Slept well although I was in the top bunk bed, in a dorm with six other ladies, and suffering from cramp. Not the best and not to be repeated, motels from now on. I was up and ready before Murray, most unusual. The hostel is in a beautiful situation, on a short peninsula, rocks covered with seals. The road was very busy with cyclists, eventually we arrived at what can only be called a cyclists cafe. Loads of bikes outside and loads of cyclists inside - if it was good enough for them it was good enough for us? Had our second breakfast mmmm. Cyclists very friendly and interested in what we were doing. Route was still very hilly but not so many peaks and troughs as yesterday. Had a good 10 mile warm up before we reached our first gradient. Route cut inland where farm fields stretched to horizon, farm shops selling fruit and veg, strawberries, cherries, artichokes, brussels and pumpkins. Locals are saying weather is better than usual at this time of year, although as we neared Marina tonight it became very misty and damp. Murray noticed a Great Western Hotel so we checked in there, no problem. Just had a huge dinner, the Americans like big portions. Again lovely scenery today and great roads, with very broad hard shoulders . This area is certainly biker friendly, specific marked bike routes through towns, lanes all the way for bikes, very much given your place on the road. Drivers are courteous and considerate. Having Murray along removes the challenge of coping on my own but also removes the anxiousness of what might happen. He is coping very well with the cycle as I knew he would, whether he can cope with me nipping at him is a different matter. Felt this was a better day today which we both enjoyed.
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